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Three days in a natural wonderland Iceland's blue lagoon summons travelers from around the world By Bessy Reyna and Susan Holmes Published May 11, 2001 REYKJAVIK -- "You are going where?" friends asked when we mentioned our plans to vacation in Iceland. Though we are usually tropics-bound in the winter, we explained that friends who vacationed in Iceland loved it, and Icelandair offers incredible package deals. Skeptics wished us luck and asked for a post-vacation report. After three days of sampling city sights and natural wonders of this northern island country, our report was simple: We can't wait to go back. Our mid-March trip was one of many packages available year-round at www.icelandair. com. Iceland is a trendy destination. Our "Midweek Madness" package for $399 per person included a round-trip flight out of Boston, hotel transfers and breakfasts for a three-day adventure. Our Sunday evening departure from Boston's Logan Airport was made easier by taking the Logan Express bus from Framingham. Parking just off the Mass Pike and not driving through Boston is worth every penny ($14 per person round-trip, and $8 per day for secure parking). We arrived early morning Iceland time. As the sun rises, the first thing you notice is the surreal quality of the images sharpening in the growing light. The landscape surrounding the highway displays long stretches of volcanic rock with no trees, and in the distance, beautiful snow-covered mountains. The air, an invigorating 40 degrees, was the same as we had left in Connecticut, but with one major difference: It is crisply clear, with no signs of pollution. Hot spring water is one of Iceland's primary natural resources, providing geothermal heat and electricity, and powering various industries without pollution. In Reykjavik, Iceland's capital, breakfast at Hotel Loftleidir - one of several four-star hotels to choose from in the package -- is a smorgasbord of hot and cold cereals, muffins, toast, jam, fresh fruit, pancakes, cold cuts, sausage and the requisite salmon and herring. Prepared fresh fish is a delight at any meal in this island nation. Though our sleep on the five-hour flight was fitful at best, we were too excited to nap after breakfast. view from Hallgrimskirkja church Hallgrimskirkja church We easily found our way to the city's landmark Hallgrimskirkja church with its bell tower, which provides a wonderful 360-degree panorama of the city. Then we were off exploring streets, museums and shops in this unique European city. The exchange rate averages about 80 Kroner to the dollar, and most stores are duty-free and provide tourists with a form that can be exchanged at the airport for a refund of all taxes paid on purchases. This makes prices slightly less than in most large cities. We walked for about six hours until exhaustion hit, and after a few hours' nap, we were ready to see the city by starlight. Feeling completely safe in this city with an exceptionally low crime rate, we walked from our hotel to a deserted, though well-lighted and paved trail up a hillside to one of the city's most famous buildings, Perlan (The Pearl). This is a magnificent modern structure with hollow steel framing supporting the glass dome and walls that link six aluminum-sided tanks, each containing 4 million liters of water averaging 185 degrees. The glass dome contains a coffee gallery on the fourth floor, which leads to an outdoor deck, and there is a lovely restaurant on the top floor, which rotates fully every two hours providing a spectacular view of the city. We were amazed to find ourselves alone on the observation deck awed by the breathtaking scene city lights, ocean and distant mountains. NATURAL BEAUTY The Icelanders we met seemed a bit reserved until we engaged them in conversation, then their warmth, humor and pride came through -- and in perfect English. According to history, Irish monks seeking to meditate undisturbed were the first to inhabit Iceland in the 6th century A.D. Now, ironically, Reykjavik, the world's northernmost capital, is a bright, colorful city of 120,000 people known for a hip, vibrant nightlife. On the second day, our friend Tom, the one who convinced us to travel to Iceland, rented a car and drove us into the countryside. First we drove over a snowy, mountainous area that opened to a gorgeous view of the ocean and a small valley town famous for its greenhouses heated by geothermal energy. He pulled off the road, and we walked a short distance to Kerid, a huge volcanic crater turned lake. While driving along, Tom pointed in the distance to Mount Hekla. The name Hekla means "hooded," so we were honored when she graciously showed herself to us, parting the nearly constant cloud cover at her peak. In medieval times, the volcano's pyrotechnics caused it to be known as one of the twin mouths of hell. Still active, Hekla's last eruption was in February 2000. About an hour outside Reykjavik, our next stop, Geysir, which has given its name to water spouts around the world, is a geothermal area bubbling with activity. Though Great Geysir, which started erupting in 1294, hasn't performed well for decades, Strokkur (the churn) spews its column of boiling water every five minutes or so to a height of 66 feet. The whole area is so active that steaming vents and ominous bubbling formations can be seen and heard all along the walking trails. Strokkur bubbling and in full eruption. Gullfoss, Golden Falls The most glorious part of the trip was our stop at Gullfoss, or Golden Falls. Perhaps Iceland's best-known natural wonder, it is a double waterfall where the River Hvita plunges 105 feet into a 1 1/2-mile ravine. We heard the thunderous sound of the water from the parking area, a few hundred yards from the cliffs surrounding the falls. The panorama at cliff's edge is awe-inspiring. A steep wooden staircase and a somewhat muddy and icy trail brought us to within arm's length of the lip of the river's descent. famous for its healing waters of 104 degrees about 40 minutes south of Reykjavik, we instead shopped for the famous Icelandic sweaters that would serve as longtime reminders of this trip. Besides, we had already decided that there was far too much that we still wanted to do. Next time we'll start with the Blue Lagoon. Copyright © 2006, The Hartford Courant Back to: Whether You Love The Beach Or The Rain Forest, Panama Has A Place To Stay |
